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BUDGAM

Budgam Jammu and Kashmir

Introdoction :: COVERING an area of 1,371 sq. km., Budgam is the smallest district in J&K, accounting for nearly 1% of the total area of the state and 6% of its population. It is bounded by the districts of Baramulla and Srinagar in the north, Pulwama in the south and the Poonch border in the south-west.

TOURISM IN BUDGAM :: District Budgam offers many stunning locales and has tremendous tourism potential that has largely remained  untapped so far. The nearly 3-crore Yousmarg road connectivity project, that is currently under execution will make Yousmarg more accessible and pave the way for the due recognition of many similar locales of Budgam. The other attractive places that can be visited are Tosamaidan, Nilnag and Khag.

DISTRICT BUDGAM A PROFILE :: COVERING an area of 1,371 sq. km, Budgam is the smallest district in Jammu and Kashmir accounting for nearly 1 % of the total area of the state and 6 % of its population. Bounded by the districts of Baramulla and Srinagar in the north, Pulwama in the south and the Poonch border in the south-west, Budgam is one of the youngest districts of the State, carved out as it was from the erstwhile District Srinagar in 1979. Situated at an average height of 5,281 ft above sea-level and at 75 degree E longitude and 34 degree N latitude, the district was known as Deedmarbag in ancient times. The topography of the district is mixed with both mountainous and plain areas. The climate is of the temperate type with the upper-reaches receiving heavy snowfall in winter. The average annual rainfall of the district is 585 mm. While the southern and south-western parts are mostly hilly, the eastern and northern parts of the district are plain. The average height of the mountains is 1,610 m and the total area under forest cover is 721 sq. km. The soil is loose and mostly denuded karewas dot the landscape.Comprising one sub Division Khansahib six  Tehsils Budgam, Beerwah  Chadoora, Khansahib,Khag, and Charisharief, the district has been divided into eight blocks, which serve as prime units of economic development. Budgam has been further sliced into 283 panchayats comprising 509 revenue villages. The recently-concluded Census 2001 has thrown up interesting facts about the district. While educating us about some hitherto unknown aspects, these facts help to identify the areas of focus and renewed attention.The district has recorded a population of 5,93,768, which is 6% of the State’s population. The population comprises 3,09, 574 males (52.1 %) and 2,84,194 females (47.9 %). The population density has been recorded at 433 persons per square kilometer, as compared to 99 persons per square km for the entire state.Budgam district has registered a decadal growth rate of 26.5 per cent, which is slightly less than 29.04 per cent for the State as a whole. With a Sex-Ratio of 918 females per 1,000 males, the figure is comparatively better than that for the State, which is 900. The sex-ratio in the State has been bettered only by Pulwama (938), Kupwara (929) and Anantnag (922). The overall literacy rate has been recorded at 39.54 %, which is considerably less than the figure of 54.46% for the J&K State. While the male literacy rate is 51.23% as compared to 65.25% for the state, the female literacy rate trails at 26.60 % as against the state figure of 41.82 %. The abysmal literacy rate for the district despite its proximity to the capital is a cause of serious concern. With a predominantly rural outlook, 86 % of the population in Budgam district live in its villages and are primarily involved in agricultural operations.On the positive side, the total road length in the district is 11,152.70 kms, which includes 398 kms of blacktopped roads.Consequently, the average road length in Budgam district works out to 81 kms per 100 sq. kms and over 205 kms per one lakh persons, figures which are much better than the corresponding figures for the state.Also encouraging is the agricultural infrastructure. The net area irrigated stands at nearly 60% of the total against the state average of 40 %. The area under fruit and vegetable cultivation is about 11 % of gross area sown against the state average of about 6 %. Budgam leads Valley in cultivation of vegetables while a good quantity of fruit is also grown in selected pockets.

District at a Glance
Geographical Area :: 1371
Population :: 6.29 lacs (2001 census)
Irrigated Area :: 35000 hects
Cultivable Area :: 57000 hects
Forest Area :: 477 kms
Sub. Divisions :: 01
Tehsils :: 06
Nayabats  :: 20
Patwar Halqas :: 114
Revenue villages  :: 509
CD Blocks  :: 08
Muncipalities :: 06
Panchayats  :: 283

TOPOGRAPHY AND SOILS :: The general topography of the area is both mountainous and plain. While the southern and south-western parts are mostly hilly, the eastern and northern parts are relatively plain. The average height of the mountains is 1,610 meters. The soil is loose and mostly denuded karewas dot the landscape.The climate of district Budgam is of temperate type. The annual average rainfall is 585 mm.

POPULATION :: The total population of the district is 6.29 Laqcs as per the  2001 Census  figures with a percentage decadal growth rate of 26.5. The only worrying factor is the low literacy rate  of 53.9 %.arrow.

DENSITY OF POPULATION :: The density of population in the district is 433 persons per sq. Km. as per 2001 Census figures as compared to the state figure of 99.

SEX-RATIO :: As per the Census 2001 there are 918 women for 1,000 men which is comparatively better than that of the state which is 900.The sex- ratio has been bettered only by Pulwama (938), Kupwara (929) and Anantnag (922).

CROPPING PATTERN :: The total geographical area of the district is 1.24 lakh hectares, which is accounted for in the revenue records. The net cultivable area is 0.595 lakh hectares. The weather conditions in the Valley as well as in the district being temperate, multiple cropping has not been successful. Paddy and maize are the main crops while ass pulses and vegetables are also grown in different pockets of the district. However, the district is trying a few experiments with unconventional farming, results of which have been encouraging so far.

PLACES OF INTEREST

For a virtual tour of Budgam :: BUDGAM district is home to some of the most exotic tourist locales where man finds himself in close communion with nature. It is a treat to visit some of these places and the district administration is unveiling a  major road connectivity plan to make the region more accessible. Some of these places include:

YOUSMARG :: ONE of the captivating meadows of Kashmir, Yousmarg is situated 50 Kms to the southwest of Srinagar at an elevation of 7,500 ft above sea-level. Yousmarg is not just a meadow but a cluster of meadows bounded by magnificent trees in the lap of Pir Panjal  mountain range. The place is simply bewitching where man is lost in nature and awed with its beauty. The place is connected by road from Srinagar via Charar-e-Sharief. Pony riding in the meadows here is a tourist's delight.

NILNAG :: IT is a beautiful blue-water lake, situated 4 kms downhill from Yousmarg, connected by a bridle path through dense forests. The place is a wonderful picnic spot where tourists are mesmerised by wonderful natural surroundings. Nilnag is also approachable from Nowgam village. The 13-km uphill journey is a superb trek that brings many other beauty spots to limelight.

MOUNT TATAKUTI :: THE source of the famous Dood Ganga stream, Mt. Tatakoti is at an elevation of 15,500 ft above sea-level. The stream, a tributary of the Riverr Jhelum is famous for trout fish. Dood Ganga is just one km away from Yousmarg where one can go on pony or enjoy the environs by footing the distance.

SANG-E-SAFED (WHITE ROCKS) :: TEN kms uphill from Yousmarg, one can go trekking to Sang-e-Safed, which serves as base for Mt. Tatakoti. En route, there are many meadows like Liddermar, where one could have a night's halt. Sang-e-Safed is an oval-shaped meadow bisected by
the Dood Ganga stream. Mornings and evenings are very refreshing here. Another enchanting meadow in the area is Haigin, 4 kms from Yousmarg. Surrounded by dense pine trees, the place is a famous picnic spot.

TOSAMAIDAN :: TOSAMAIDAN is not only famous as a pasture but also for its historical bacKground. Bounded by dense forests, it is situated about 10 Kms from Khag in the mountains of the Himalayan range. After crossing the upper mountain reaches of Drang, Zakhora and other small villages, one reaches the pasture of Tosamaidan. It is one of those pastures which the shepherds of other countries also used to visit in ancient times. The Mughals used to go to Poonch using this route. It is said that they had constructed a seven-storeyed building  -Dam Dam - here. The Basmai Gali (13,000 ft) is the pass which leads into Tosamaidan. Another pass  - Poonch Gali - on its right side leads to the valley of Poonch. This pass was deemed to be the safest, easiest, and nearest to reach Punjab in in ancient times. From here a path also leads to Nilnag. Tosamaidan is the largest pasture in its surrounding areas, 3 miles in length and 1.5 miles in width. Sky touching deodars fence this pasture presenting a view of a green carpet during summer. During summer, the camps of the Gujjar community and shepherds are grazing their sheep in the pasture presenting a riveting look. Also, the fragrance of wild flowers refresh the environment.

PEHJAN :: TO reach this alpine pasture, one has to cross the green slopes of Donwar, Brari Pather and Yanga Pather. A little higher from these slopes, the entire place is covered with various kinds of asters and several plants of saussuera lappa (Kuth). Immediately afterwards, the area of "Rachi Parhan" (Pasture of Parhan) c ommences. In clear blue sky, the view of the area is ravishing. One can view the famous Wular Lake from here which resembles a silver-sheet. One can also enjoy the most charming view of one of the highest peaks in the world - Nanga Parbat  (26,696 ft)  - from here.

NAKWAER PAL :: BEFORE Pehjan, there is the famous 14,000 ft-high Nakwaer Pal (the nostril rock) on the way. It is the highest peak of this range. About this famous rock it is said that when Kashmir valley was a lake (Sati Sar),boats used to be anchored with this rock. Today there is an iron hook within it (Ded Bal), also known as (Lal Khanen Gher). Here shepherds and Gujjars come from adjacent villages with their livestock.

KHAG :: SITUATED 8,000 to 14,000 ft. above sea-level, in the lap of dense woods, bounded by mountains whose average height reaches  17,000 ft, Khag block in the Beerwah tehsil of Budgam district, is a place of breathtaking beauty in the southwest of Kashmir. The area is rich in green pastures where, with the onset of summer, the caravans of nomad Bakerwals arrive along with their cattle to graze in the meadows. The atmosphere turns romantic when a shepherd, while guarding his herd of sheep, plays flute and fills the air with magic. One has the experience the moment to believe it. During early winter, these nomads along with their  move through various  mountain passes to warm places before the area is covered with snow. The return of summer, however, simply transforms the place into a dreamland.

SPRINGS :: ACROSS the length and breadth of the district, there are many springs. In khag alone, there are at least 30 springs providing fresh water round the year. However, during the summer, the number increases to over 50. For this reason, the area could as well be called the land of Springs. Some of these historically important springs are:-

SUT HARAN :: A LITTLE away from the famous meadow of Tosamaidan and close to the Line of Actual Control in the midst of thick forest is situated this enchanting spring. The legend has it that during his 12-year long exile (Vanvas) Ram Chander passed through these woods and stayed here along with Lakshman and Sita. Sita, it is said, would bath in the spring which consequently got its name from her as Sita Haran. The name got later changed to Sut Haran. Close to the spring is a rock which, according to the legend, was used by Sita to sit on. The spring is also said to be the origin of a small lake, Tosamaidan. The water of the spring is very sweet.

NARA NAG :: NARANAG spring is also known as Narain Nag. The spring is close to the Khag village. The origin of the spring is beleived to be the Tosamaidan lake which after flowing several miles beneath the soil, resurfaces in the form of Naranag. It is said that long ago an ascetic was once going through this place. He was carrying a bagful of sheep dung which fell from his hand into the lake. Several days later, when he reached this place in Khag, he saw the dung floating on the surface of the Naranag. To convince himself, the ascetic returned to Tosamaidan and this time sprinkled some turmeric powder in to the lake. A couple of days later, the water in the Naranag carried a tinge of turmeric colour.

SUKHNAG :: OF the many round-the-year-flowing springs, the Sukhnag, originally Sokhanag (the spring of solace) is the fountainhead of the Ahij brook. Flowing through the mountain terrain, the spring water transforms into a 20 ft high-roaring waterfall at Kanj Zubji, few miles from Tosamaidan, before mingling with other small streams to form the Ahij brook. Downwards, the Ahij is further divided into many streams, like Mala Kol, Lar Kol and Sona Maen Kol, irrigating many villages of Beerwah tehsil.


PUSHKAR NAG :: Pushkar Nag is in the east of Poshker village between Khag and Ferozpora. This historical spring is surrounded by several villages on its three sides white it flows to the east. The spring owes its name to the village of its origin. It is said that during the month of Sawan, Kashmiri Pandits would offer prayers known as Diavai Paath here and the devotees would take a dip in the spring. Some devotees perform the ritual today as well. The spring finds a mention in the chronicle, Neelamat Purana, accoring to which a devotee was spiritually as much benefitted by taking a dip in the spring as by a night-long recitation of the Vedas.

GANDHAK NAG :: THIS is a spring in Darang Khaipora village of Khag block with sulphur contents in its water. Hence the name Ghandak Nag. People with skin ailments take a bath in the spring and are said to get cured. These properties of its water make the Ghandak Nag very significant.

MOUNTAIN STREAMS :: AMID lush forest, several mountain streams flow through the district from Badran to Sat Haran. Of these, the famous are Mala Kol, Lear Kol, Ahij Kol, Laen, Zaen, Mean and Sona Mean. The Ahij, Laen and Sona Maen have the common fountainhead in Sukhnag. MalaKol is also known as the "deaf and dumb stream ". Legend has it that when a saint, Syed Taj-ud-Din, arrived in Khag, the Mala Kol silently followed him from Sukh Nag to Sikandarpora. The stream continues to flow with calm even when it is brimming. On the other hand, the Laen Kol is known to be making a roaring march with much less discharge of water. Local elders have interesting stories to say about the stream of the area. According to them the streams of Laen Zean are three sisters. The Ahij and Mala Kol embrace the Jhelum after marching through Khag and other villages of Budgam district. Besides, Shaliganga Nallah, Dood Ganga nullah, Ferozpora nullah and the flood-spill channel also flows through the district.

HOLY PLACES
   
SHRINES :: SAINTS, ascetics and the sages have always been attracted to district Budgam that is home to many renowned shrines, including that of Sheikh Noor-ud-din Noorani (RA) at Chrar-e-Sharief. The secluded yet enchanting environs of the district have been favourite spots for these men of God to meditate and be one with Him. Indifferent to the world of materialism and away from the noise of the cities, various sufis and saints have attained spiritual enlightenment in Budgam, which is swarming with tombs, shrines and other sacred places belonging to these great men. Some of these  places with religious and historical significance include:-

THE TOMB OF SHEIKH NOOR-UD-DIN :: THE tomb of Sheikh Noor-ud-Din Noorani (RA), popularly known as Alamdar-e-Kashmir (flag-bearer of Kashmir), is situated 28 kms in the southwest of Srinagar at Chrar-e-Sharief. The land where the shrine is situated belonged to Sangram Dar, a disciple of Alamdar-e-Kashmir, who had constructed a mosque there. It was here where Sheikh
Noor-ud-din Noorani (RA) would say his Friday prayers. According
to a legend, following the death of Alamdar-e-Kashmir, his his coffin, after flying some distance, descended at the site where the shrine lies and where the great sufi saint has been laid to rest.

THE SHRINE OF KHAN SAHIB :: SITUATED in the Khan Sahib block of district Budgam, the shrine is associated with a famous saint  - Hazrat Salen Khan  - who belonged to Pakhla village (now in Pakistan) and came here in the sixteenth century along with his father, Ismail Sahib. On the day of the birth of his son, it is believed, 99 saints visited the house of Ismail Sahab to see the new-born child. At age 5, his uncle, an influential man in the area, wanted to adopt Salen Khan but Ismail Sahib would not agree. When the former exerted pressure, Ismail Sahib took his son along and travelled on foot to Kashmir. On way, Syed Salen Khan met a famous saint - Bu Ali. Syed Salen's father took his son to Baba Naseeb-ud-Din Gazi, a well- known saint of Kashmir, where the two stayed for over a year. Later, the Baba granted Ismail Sahib permission to leave and Syed Salen Khan stayed back and took religious and spiritual guidance from the baba for 13 years. Syed Salen Khan also meditated for almost a dozen years in a cave and also stayed for some time in the Srinagar city. Later, he chose a place in a jungle for prayers and meditation. The cave, where he meditated, still exists. During his stay in the cave, people began to visit Syed Salen Khan and soon he was widely known to be a saint of high order. The place came to be known as Khan Sahib after him. Hazrat Syed Saleh Khan passed away on Zeelqad 17, 1019 Hijri. He was a fine calligrapher and a copy of the Holy Quran calligraphed by him is available at Watal Kadal, Srinagar. In the month of Zeelqad, a week-long urs (festival) is held at the tomb of Syed Saleh Khan Sahib.

IMAMBARA BUDGAM :: IMAMBARA, Budgam is a major religious place for the Shi'ate Muslims of the Valley. The building of the Imambara was originally constructed in 1857, under the supervision of Aga Syed Mohammad, on the place where famous Shi'ate religious leader Aga Syed Mehdi used to offer prayers. Inside the building was designed by Asgar Ali of Mirgund, Budgam. In 1924, extensions where carried out on the existing structure by Aga Syed Sahib and paper machie work was also under taken. In 1955, another extension was carried out by the Anjuman-e-Shari Shian under Aga Syed Yusuf Al-Mosavi Al-Safvi.The present octagonal Imambara has five main entrances each of 12 ft. width. One of the entrances is reserved for the women. Adjacent to the Imambara is a mosque constructed by Aga Syed Yusuf Al-Mosavi Al-Safvi. The Indo- Iranian piece of architecture, the Imambara commands great reverence in the of Shia community of the Valley. Apart from its religious significance, it is equally important as a piece of monumental value.

ZIARAT ALAMDAR-E-KASHMIR :: SHEIKH Noor-ud-din (RA) had widely travelled throughout Kashmir. The shrines connected with great sufi saint are found all over the Valley. The distant block of Khag also had the good fortune of receiving the saint and there would hardly be any place here not visited by him during his meditation. The village of Hamchapora also provided him a place to meditate. When Alamdar-e-Kashmir arrived at Khag, he selected a rock for his meditation which bore still bear  imprints of his feet. The rock, known as Shah Kean (the king- stone). During his stay at Poshkar, Sheikh-ul-Aalam met a pious lady, Sham Ded, who under his guidance, attained spiritual heights. As the great sufi saint stayed at Hamchapora for long, the place became revered and people started flocking the village which steadily attained the status of a ziarat. The devotees visit the shrine in large numbers to pay their respects.

THE TOMB OF SHAM DED :: SHAM Ded, daughter of an ironsmith of Poshker village, was introduced to spirituality by Sheikh-ul-Alam, Hazrat Sheikh Noor-ud-din Noorani (RA). Around the same time, Alamdar-e-Kashmir had another disciple - Baba Latif-ud-Din Qazi. It is said that Sham Ded informed Baba Latif-ud-Din about the departure to the heavenly abode of Sheikh Noor-ud-din Noorani (RA). It was evening (sham) when the lady broke the news to the Baba, hence the name Sham Ded, who after her death, was laid to rest at Poshker village.

BABA LATIF-UD-DIN :: POSHKER village is also home to the tomb of Hazrat Baba Latif-ud-din Qazi, a worthy disciple of the Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA). He was a man of great qualities. The Baba, in search of employment, had to come to Kashmir from Kishtwar and when he arrived here, he began his quest for a spiritual guide. Some people believe that this search led him to Poshker where he had an audience with  Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA). Known then as Ludo Raina, the Baba asked for the spiritual cure to his ailments. The spiritual power of the Sheikh influenced Raina and he became his disciple after which he was known as Hazrat Baba Latif-ud-Din. The company of Alamdar-e-Kashmir taught him to ameliorate the condition of the downtrodden besides striving for his own spiritual attainment. By  orders Sheikh Noor-ud-din Noorani (RA), the Baba left Poshker and meditated for years together in a cave known as Baba Marg, situated far away from Poshker, where he later also passed away. The disciples of the Baba were anxious as to how their other colleagues in remote areas would reach this farflung cave to perform his last rites. Their anxiety, however, proved short-lived as the coffin carrying the body of the Baba, miraculously took off and flew to Poshker village where the saint was later buried. On the 7th of Phaguna every year, an urs is held on the tomb where relics, including a sword of the Baba are displayed.

THE SHRINE OF SYED MOHAMMAD SAMRI :: SEVEN kms from Habir village, in Khag block, at Lassapora, is situated the shrine of Hazrat Syed Mohammad Samri. On the 12th of Phaguna the devotees throng the shrine to pay obeisance to the spiritual leader. The saint had arrived here from Shopian, in Pulwama, several hundred years ago and chose to meditate in the dense forests for years where, he later passed away. He is buried  at Laspora.

THE SHRINE OF HAZRAT GANGA BABA RISHI :: HAZRAT Ganga Baba Rishi is one of the prominent saints buried at  Palapora Poshker where he spent his entire life in material poverty. But with his meditation and prayers, Baba Rishi attained enormous spiritual wealth. In and around Palapora, 3 kms from Khag, the Baba is believed to have constructed 360 mosques and an equal number of culverts. He had migrated from Maraz and lived in Palapora, where he breathed his last and was laid to rest. His tomb is thronged by a large number of devotees every year. The Baba, had a tremendous environmental temperament and was responsible for planting thousands of saplings during his life time. One tree is believed to have reached the girth of around 40 ft.

TOMB OF ZIA-UD-DIN BUKHARI :: SOME three centuries back, it is believed, Hazrat Zia-ud-din Bukhari reached the Valley from Bukhara along with 360 Syeds. During his stay here, he came to Kanihama and preached Islam. The saint performed many miracles one of whom is related to  a blind girl. It is said that he asked the girl to fetch some fire for his Kangri (an earthenware firepot). Since the girl was blind, she expressed her inability to do the required. Upon this, the saint touched her eyes with his hand and the girl's eyesight was restored. Hazrat Bukhari died at Kanihama where he was laid to rest. On 26th, in the Muslim month of Rajab, an urs is held at the shrine where people in large gather to pay their respects.

TOMB OF SYED TAJ-UD-DIN AND SYED ALLA-UD-DIN :: ACCORDING to a legend, when Syed Taj-ud-Din arrived in Khag, the Mala Kol silently followed him from Sukh Nag to Skinderpora. Syed Taj-ud-Din first arrived in Sukh Nag where he stayed for long, and later, crossing various villages, reached Skinderpora, where he spend the rest of his life. Following his death, the mantle of spiritual guidance of people fell on his son, Syed Alla-ud-Din, who was equally a pious soul. The tombs of both the father and son, are situated in Skinderpora and attract a large number of devotees.

IMPORTANT INSTALLATIONS
There are some vital installations situated in the district which are engaged in extending various facilities to the people.

AIRPORT :: The Srinagar Airport, now called the New Airport, was constructed in the year 1980. The airport, a vital communication link as the the national highway remains blocked for most of the winter, offers aerial service to different parts of the state and outside.   Besides, chopper service to Kargil, Karnah and Gurez are also operated from the same airport.

PETROL DEPOT. SANAT NAGAR :: The Ministry of Petroleum, GOI, set up a petrol depot at Sanat Nagar in 1974 with a storage capacity of 50,000 ltrs.

SOFTWARE TECHNOLOGY PARK :: On January 6 this year, J&K appeared on the IT map of India when the first software technology park (STP) became operational at Industrial Estate at Rangreth, again in Budgam. The high-speed data communication centre, besides providing jobs, will enable the youth of the state to start their own independent units and seek employment around the world.

L.P. GAS PLANT, PEERBAGH :: The L.P. gas-plant at Peerbagh, near Hyderpora, was established by the Hindustan Petroleum in 1983. The plant has a capacity to store 20,000 l of the liquefied gas.